Concrete is a no- no for fence posts . Apparently, removing the original posts left very large holes, which the previous fence builder filled with concrete.

So my buddy is dealing with a lot of concrete. First rule, gang: Do not set wooden posts in concrete. Look, no matter what preventative steps you take (and I’ll get to those), eventually wooden posts rot, and eventually you’ll have to set new ones. Not only does burying them in concrete make for more work down the line, it actually can speed up the rotting. The concrete creates a collar around the post, and because different materials expand and contract with mosture and temperature at different rates, inevitably a little space develops around the post.

Water loves to seep into little spaces. But it doesn’t seep out because the concrete is not just a collar; it’s also a cup. And cups hold water. If you have a post sitting in a cup of water, is it any wonder that the post eventually rots? This is how to set a post: 1. Dig a hole as close in diameter as you can to the diameter of the post. Youwant as little wiggle roomas possible.

It should come as no surprise that a standard clam- shell posthole digger or hand auger bores a perfectly sized hole fora standard 4- by- 4- inch post. Measure the post and plan on burying at least a third of it. For a 5- foot fence, you’d want an 8- foot post and you’d need a 3- foot hole. Don’t cheat by cutting the post shorter.

Before you set the post in the hole, place a rock or broken chunk of concrete in the bottom — pointy end up if possible. That little footing will give the post something to stand on instead of damp soil. Set the post in the hole and brace it plumb (or put a helper on the job) and in line and level with the posts you’ve already set. If you remember to set the corner posts first, it makes it easy to run string lines between them. Slowly shovel in equal parts crushed rock or sharp gravel and soil, tamping between layers, until you get to ground level. For years I’ve been using an oddly curved length of 2- by- 2 to tamp with. Many use an upended shovel.

All that’s needed is something long and fairly narrow. When you get to ground level, pour enough of your dirt and rock mix around the post to tromp it down and make a little hill so rain will run away from the post. End- grain is the enemy, which was the reason for installing that little rock “foundation” under the post. It holds that end- grain above whatever moisture might collect at the bottom of the post hole.

4x4 Fence Post Cap

Step by step instructions for installing deck rail posts to your deck. Deck Rail Post Attachment.

But you have to deal with end- grain at the top of the post, too. You can bevel the top with a chop saw set at 4.

I find that pieces of 2- by- 6 (actually 5 1/2- inch squares) make perfect caps. I designed a special jig so I can bevel them at 1. I soak them in wood preservative for several days before tacking them to the tops of the posts. They last about four years, but it would be longer if the squirrels didn’t chew on them.

Technical Information PostMaster® Steel Posts MasterHalco.com. Is PostMaster hard to install? Master Halco’s patented PostMaster steel post for wood fencing. Posted In - Fencing Tips. Digging fence post holes is backbreaking work so make sure you have the right tool to make it easier. Here's a guide to building and installing a wood fence for added privacy. Learn about fence styles, dealing with slopes, setting posts and adding a gate. Setting Posts without Mixing. Pour about a gallon of water per 50 lb bag into the hole and allow the water to saturate the concrete mix.

How to defend the garden against squirrels, of course, would be a whole . Box 8. 16. 09, Lincoln, NE 6.

Deck Rail Post Attachment. Many older decks have railing posts installed on the outside of the deck framing, and sometimes those posts were notch- cut at the bottom, where they fit against the outside joists. Today codes demand stronger posts, so they are generally not notched, and are installed on the inside of the framing. That means they need to be installed prior to adding the decking. Wood railing posts are usually 4x. PVC or composite sleeves. Most local codes call for a railing that is either 3.

The post will be the desired height of the railing, plus the width of the framing it is attached to, minus thickness of the cap that rests on top of the posts (if any). Hyper Wiper Instant Download Excel File. This article shows how to install posts with two bolts, which produces a very strong attachment.

However, your building department may require additional hardware for extra strength. Also, if you are attaching a railing post to an outside joist that is not doubled, be sure to install blocking nearby or even attached to the post’s side; otherwise, the post will be wobbly. Here we show posts for a 3. To 3. 6, we add 9 1/4 inches for the width of the 2x. The exception: If your stairs will come out at an angle, the railing posts should face in that direction, so the stair railings can be easily attached. However, this creates a place for moisture to collect, so most builders install a 4x.

Once all the railing posts are installed, you are ready to lay the decking. After the decking is finished, it will be time to install the railing’s top and bottom rails, balusters, top cap, and any other parts. Mark rail post centers.

Determine where you want your rail posts. You will need one at each corner; position the others as evenly spaced as possible. Mark for the exact position. Codes typically require that posts be no more than 6 feet apart. Mark for post centers, then draw lines to indicate the sides of the post. Cut the post and tack a guide nail. Cut the post to length (see the tip place tk).

Draw a line marking where the post should meet the top of the framing, and tack a nail there, as a height guide. Plumb and clamp the post.

Hold the post in position, resting on the tacked nail from step 2. Use clamps to hold it temporarily in place; make sure the clamps will not get in the way of the bolts you will install. Check that the post is plumb in both directions. If the post is out of plumb in the direction shown in the photo, use shims to make it plumb. Drill holes for the bolts.

Drill two holes through the outside framing and the post. The holes should be in the center of the post, 1 1/2 to 2 inches from the top and bottom of the framing. You will need a long drill bit the exact size of the bolts’ shaft (usually, 1/2 inch). Aim to hold the drill bit straight and level as you work. When the going gets tough, pull the bit out to release wood chips, then go at it again.

If the bit starts to smoke from being too hot, stop work and allow the bit to cool off; otherwise, you will dull the bit in short order. Pound the bolts through. Pound the bolts through the holes with a hammer. At the other side, slip on a washer and nut. Use a wrench to tighten the bolts.