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Design. 21. 5 Megapixels Comparison and Maximum Print Size Charts. Therefore it would make sense that you would need 2. A 1. 6x. 20 is (1.

MP). This chart is only about the math and does not take into consideration the subject matter of the image, the media it will be printed on, the amount of post editing that will be done to it, or the viewing distance of the final output. A larger 6. MP sensor will of course produce better images than a smaller 6.

MP sensor of the same type. From there, it gets very complicated. For one, making an inkjet print is different than producing a print ad where you need 3.

An explanation of dots per inch vs. Canon Singapore Pte. CanoScan Toolbox is a one-stop shop for all of your printing needs. Though it mostly works without a hitch, the lack of a workable Help feature could leave many. Next up in the toolbox series is an idea so good it deserves an entire article all to itself: consistent hashing. Let’s say you’re a hot startup and your database.

I've made great looking 1. MP Nikon D7. 0 but the same image didn't quite cut it for a full page magazine ad. There are a number of factors to consider including subject matter, exposure, focus, and post processing. How does one begin to make such a chart? The chart on this page is purely for a mathematical overview. As the table underneath the chart shows, I can shoot 3. In reality, I shoot digital 9.

I need to go big. For the sake of simplicity, I have selected the . He explains that he made a 2. MP Nikon D2. H. Yes, 4 megapixels at 7. Actually the D2. H gives you 2. He says he used USM (Unsharp Mask) at 5. R to . The thing is, he started with a top of the line, $3.

USD camera and a high quality lens. He captured a RAW image file (not a jpeg) then he did some post processing in Photoshop. Finally, he sent the file to a print shop, where the image was most likely processed again in the RIP software. A consumer with a $2. MP camera who has no idea how to use Photoshop, is not going to achieve the same results. In the table below the chart, I've listed print sizes at 2. The chart simply serves as a visual comparison of various megapixel areas.

You're spot on about the link above - the guy is using top quality gear and the photo was sent to a printer who obviously applied interpolation either in Photoshop or through the RIP (more likely). Sending the image to a different printer would produce a different result. Another point is that resolution is fast becoming less important than it has been to date. As sensors become more detailed, so lenses, sensor size, lag time and other functions become more important. The best way to decide on maximum print size is to look at actual prints. To give some hope to those who would push the 3.

I purchased my 8mp APS- C DSLR I thought max size would be 8x. Recently with simple Photoshopping and a good printer (meaning a person who prints rather than a machine) I took them up to 1. It really surprised me how good they looked! But the fact is that I have made high quality 1. THese are as good, if not better, in quality as some of the 1.

I have made in the darkroom with ISO 1. They were not pixelated, blurred, or distorted. Granted they have to be high quality images to start with. In real life the numbers are a good guide, but only experience can tell you for sure what your camera will actually do for you. The only time the rule doesn't hold is they happen to need to do extensive cropping.

It gets confusing with all the dimensions and things like that, but over all it was really helpful. What ISO is it? Film has grain, not pixels so you could use 1.

ISO film and it still wouldn't become little square pixels no matter how much you enlarged it. That being said, there are many other differences between film and digital. Each has its advantages and disadvantages. The link to the tiger print is also great.

It also confirms the old saying . From this chart how do you print smaller ? By doubling the DPI ?

Print still a mistery to me..: ( since I am an amateur photog like many..: ) Great chart! Thank you Peter Kidd Wales. I experimented within photoshop and found slightly better results using the one- step . I found it to be smoother AND sharper. I also found two things that haven't been mentioned yet..

The one- step approach is just a better way to resize in my opinion. My 8. MP Canon 2. D can make a good looking A4 (8. Hack Up Little White Balls In Diarrhea there. You are correct that, in the strictest sense, to get an image that looks good to any pair of eyes from any distance one should be printing at 3. But things are not quite that simple.

The average pair of eyes is less acute, and the average viewing distance is further away. Skill with interpolation software can double native resolution while retaining unpixelated edges and all details.

Which is why the D2. H can do posters with certain subjects.

This is great info, especially for those not handy with post- processing. If the image was placed farther away from the audience the ppi's can reduce, as Smartie alluded to when refering to billboards, with no reduction in quality being seen.

To them I would like to remind of: Panorama photography, Scrolling backgrounds for film, and the common practice of cropping. I've been out of photography for a while and got back in by stumbling across this. I'm creating views of classroom lessons and activities. Should be enough for that. You can scan 3. 5mm chrome up to about 5,5. Above that your are just scanning the film grain. I have produced spectacular 3.

Film still records far more information than any digital camera. This chart is not accurate where film is concerned at all. I have read that 3. MP of information. That's more than even the current medium format digital cameras. I have 3. 5mm negatives on Agfa APX2.

I had to have professionally scanned with a drum scanner in order to reproduce the detail I could see under a 1. My 3. 5mm reference in the chart is an average of 1. MP. I arrived at this number after scanning many, many slides and negatives. Most people are not shooting Velvia or Agfa 2. I found the information extremely helpful and was fully able to understand that this is meant to be an average. There are always exceptions to the rule and I feel photography is about bending the limits of perception quite often, even through outside sources.

Essentially many things are possible through diligence and hard work, then there are the rest of us. I am grateful to the time you spent on this for us. I wonder if there is a way to estimate the approximate . I believe its the opposite. I am, of course, disregarding all . First of all, many of the famous photographs from 4. Speed Graphic or similar camera on 4x.

For years, I shot Agfa APX2. Nikon FM2 and a manual focus, Nikkor 1. F2. 5. I developed my film by hand and I have 2. Personally, I've been waiting a long time for digital to catch up to film.

It's now 2. 01. 1 and I think its just beginning to happen. I have read several of your very well articulated articles, thank you for devoting the time and energy to help many people out with these concepts. I was wondering if you had published an article or table of this somewhere? A viewing distance chart is on my to do list.

I think some people here are totally missing the point of your exercise! How many times do you need to explain it for them? I would add that some photo editors and printing utilities allow you to print a test strip before you print large (or have it printed by a lab). For example, you can set the print size at 1. The resulting 4x. My suggestion is to add the standard photo paper size (2. R, 4. R, 8. R, etc) to the chart.

For those of us that use a camera non- professionally, this is a great rule- of- thumb guide, particularly if you might be in the market for older tech and need a simple comparison. And still, as of start of 2. But probably most professional will have at the end of year.. This is exactly what I've been looking for. I had two meetings today trying to understand/find the conversion math. Both the Apple Aperture people and the guys at the Photo Lab were convinced the math was long and complicated. All the other articles I've read confused me more.

In fact I haven't found one yet that is as good as this article. I have 3. 5mm negatives on Agfa APX2. ISO 2. 5 black and white film) that I had to have professionally scanned with a drum scanner in order to reproduce the detail I could see under a 1.

My 3. 5mm reference in the chart is an average of 1.