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Xbox 3. 60 Red Ring of Death Fix. This website is dedicated to the repair of broken Xbox 3. I have successfully repaired several Xbox’s with this method but as with anything, there are no guarantees. I will explain which tools are needed and provide step by step directions. If you can’t find the parts in your local hardware store, you can purchase them here. If you are careful, and follow this guide closely, you should be on your way back to a working Xbox 3. Note: Opening your Xbox 3.

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VOID any warranty that you have remaining. Part List: (8) M5- . Hex Cap Screws(Lowes: H#8. Flat #1. 0 Nylon Washers (Lowes: H#8. Flat 5mm Washers (Lowes: H#8.

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Artic Silver 5 Thermal Compound. Cotton Swabs. Tape (optional but helpful)Rubbing Alcohol. Some type of cleaner: Windex, 4. Goo Gone, etc. Tools Required: T8 Torx Screwdriver. T1. 0 Torx Screwdriver. Small Screwdriver. Pliers. 10mm Socket.

Step by Step Instructions: Step 1 – Remove Faceplate and Hard Drive. Remove faceplate. Before you begin, make sure you have a clean workspace and that you are not on carpet. Place your thumb inside where the controllers plug in and pull the faceplate off. If you have a hard drive, press the button on the hard drive and remove it from the Xbox. Step 2 - Remove Side Grills.

Remove side grills. The side grills can be slightly difficult to remove. If you look closely through the holes on the side of the Xbox, you will see three tabs on each side of the side panels. The tabs need to be pushed in and then the side grill should pop up. I have a pair of flat tweezers that fit nicely into the holes on the side of the Xbox. A small screwdriver or a nail should also work just fine. Do this for all six tabs on each side plate.

Step 3 - Remove Bottom Cover. Remove bottom cover. At the back of the Xbox and in between the top and bottom covers, you will see 7 small slots. Each of these slots needs to be pushed in for the top and bottom covers to separate. Once you have all 7 slots pushed in, go to the front of the Xbox and release the 3 tabs that hold the top and bottom covers together. The bottom cover of the XBox should now be free to remove like a clamshell.

If you have problems opening the case, you can purchase a special Xbox 3. Remove the DVD- ROM eject button by pulling it out of its slot. Step 4 – Remove Case Screws (Silver) and Top Cover. Remove case screws. Using your Torx T1. These are the screws that attach the top cover.

I always mark the six screw holes with a black magic marker. This makes it much easier when remembering which six holes to put the silver screws back in. Do not remove the bronze screws yet or the black screws on the X’s. Now that you have removed the silver screws, the top cover should now be free to remove. Step 5 – Remove DVD- ROM, thermal chute and cooling fan. Nero Burning Rom 12 Multilanguage Media.

Remove DVDDisconnect the two (2) cables from the back of the DVD- ROM drive (power cable and SATA cable). The thermal chute is held in place by a tab on top of the cooling fans. Disconnect the cooling fan power cable from the motherboard. Next, using the Torx T- 8 bit to remove the three (3) black screws holding the IR board. Finally, pull the IR board out from the mainboard. Note: When reassembling, make sure the arrow on the white plastic piece is pointing up. Step 7 – Remove Mainboard and X- Clamp Screws (Bronze & Black)Remove mainboard screws.

Now we are ready to remove the mainboard from the case. Using the Torx T- 1. Remove the nine (9) bronze screws from the bottom of the case. Next, using the Torx T- 8 bit, remove the eight (8) smaller torx screws located in the center of the case at the tips of the two X’s. All visible screws on the bottom should be removed at this point.

Step 8 – Remove Mainboard. Remove mainboard. Lift the mainboard out from the case. Avoid working in carpeted areas because the mainboard is sensitive to static electricity. Step 9 – Remove X- Clamps. X- Clamps. The heatsinks on the CPU and the GPU are fastened to the mainboard using X- Clamps (which we will be replacing). On the back side of the mainboard, remove both X- Clamps by inserted a small headed screwdriver in between the screw the clamp.

Gently pry the X- Clamps off, one post at a time. It is very important to be careful during this step. You don’t want to slip and put a scratch on the bottom of the mainboard. The clamps may be frustrating to remove, but they will come off eventually.

Step 1. 0 – Remove Heatsinks and Heatsink Screws. Remove heatsink screws. The heatsinks can now be lifted off from the CPU and the GPU. Using pliers, remove the four (4) screws on both the CPU and GPU heatsinks (8 screws total). If you have lint, dust, or hair in your heatsinks, now is the time to blow it out. Step 1. 1 – Clean Residue from Heatsinks, CPU and GPUOld thermal compound. The remnants of the old thermal paste needs to be thoroughly removed from the bottom of the CPU & GPU heatsinks AND from the top of the CPU & GPU.

Using an old credit card or a flat piece of plastic is a good way to remove most of the remnant thermal compound from the heatsinks. To get it even cleaner, use cotton swaps and rubbing alcohol. Goo Gone works very well also. The heatsinks may need some scrubbing but try to get all of the old residue off. The goal is to get the heatsinks looking like fresh metal and the CPU and GPU should have a mirror like finish.

Be easier on the CPU and GPU and try not to get them too wet. Once again, this may take quite a few cotton swabs, but it is important get these as clean as possible.

Symptoms of heat are the main reasons for an Xbox to fail. Applying new thermal compound PROPERLY can significantly reduce the normal operating temperature of your Xbox. Old thermal compound. On some units, the old thermal paste had smeared so far that it was actually covering the circuitry on top of the GPU.

If this is the case with yours, make sure you clean all of the old thermal paste off. Use your credit card and slide it between the chips to make sure the thermal paste isn’t connecting them.

Thermal paste is conductive so you do not want it touching two different components on the chip. Step 1. 2 – Apply Artic Silver 5. Apply Artic Silver 5. Make sure both the CPU and GPU are clean, dry, and free from any fibers before proceeding. Put a small dab of Artic Silver 5 on three areas; the single die on top of the CPU, and the two dies on top of the GPU. It is important not to put on too much thermal paste because it will have the opposite effect of its purpose.

Using your finger, gently dab the thermal paste around on the surface of the dies until you have a nicely even, paper thin layer. Check for low spots and make sure the dies are completely covered. Adjust thermal compound if needed. Do not apply the thermal compound to the heatsinks! Wash and dry your hands. Step 1. 3 – Clean Traces.

Clean traces. This step is optional but suggested. On some units, you will see what looks to be water stains on the mainboard circuitry. I am not completely sure what this is or what causes it, but I always use a cotton swap with rubbing alcohol to clean away anything that appears to be a water stain, especially if the stain is over the metal traces in the mainboard. Step 1. 4 – Insert New Screws and Washers.

Insert screws and washers. Insert your new M5- .

Next, place a plastic washer on top of the screw threads so that the mainboard is between the screw head and the nylon washer. On top of the nylon washers, place a zinc washer. Make sure to only use two washers per screw because the distance between the mainboard and the heatsinks must be 2mm. Each washer is 1mm. There should now be 8 screws coming up from your mainboard with the metal washers on top, above the nylon washers. It is helpful to put tape over each of the screw heads on the bottom of the motherboard. This will help hold the screws in place while you complete the next step.

Step 1. 5 – Replace CPU and GPU Heatsink. Install both heatsinks. Download Product Key Adobe Photoshop Cs3. Line up the holes in the bottom of the CPU and GPU heatsinks with their respective protruding screws from the mainboard.